Santa Fe New Mexico to Flagstaff Arizona

I drove 384 miles today from Santa Fe New Mexico to Flagstaff Arizona. We really enjoyed staying in Santa Fe. While all of the stores were displaying very beautiful but expensive things, very few tourists seemed to be purchasing things. It was clear that the Covid-19 virus has impacted Santa Fe hard. I would say that fully one third of the stores were vacant, another third were closed, and the remaining third that were open, weren't busy. The town was not packed at all and those tourists that were there were not carrying packages. Anyway, we stayed at the historic La Fonda Hotel. I woke up around 4:30 and decided to check out the Orionids meteor shower. While I didn't see any, there were countless stars in the sky above Santa Fe.

We knew we had a long drive to Flagstaff so we got up early, had breakfast at a nice cafe that has been in the same location since 1909 and got on the road. We refueled the minivan and ourselves in Gallup New Mexico. We then decided to stand on a corner in Winslow Arizona (such a fine sight to see).

Our stop here was brief but enjoyable. The road from Windslow to Flagstaff seemed to mainly be climbing and we passed several towering mesas and red rocks were prevalent.

Tomorrow we intend to return to Route 66 to see the Arizona towns of Williams, Seligman, Kingman, and Oatman.

Hidden in Plain Sight - A Historic Atomic Marker in Santa Fe New Mexico

We only drove about 55 miles today. After having breakfast in the arts district in Albuquerque New Mexico, we decided to visit Santa Fe. I have wanted to visit for a while but especially so after reading a fascinating book called 109 East Palace: Robert Oppenheimer and the Secret City of Los Alamos. 

Today in the courtyard patio of 109 East Palace visitors will find colorful ceramic lizards, chilies, frogs and dragonflies for sale.

Attached to the back wall is a small historic plaque.

With only a small sign that indicates a historical marker can be seen in the patio, the overwhelming majority of tourists miss it.

They pass by unaware that in the 1940's physics luminary's like Edward Teller, Enrico Fermi and Richard Feynman passed through this patio, often bringing their families with them. Each had received secret orders to report to 109 East Palace, Santa Fe New Mexico. They were tired, often having endured long journeys by train to this desolate desert city located high in the mountains at 7,199 feet of elevation.

When they arrived, they were met by Dorothy McKibbin a widow who had originally come to the New Mexico desert hoping to be cured of tuberculosis. After she recovered, she was offered a job by none other than Robert Oppenheimer, a professor from the University of California at Berkeley. Dorothy ran the secret Manhattan Project office in Santa Fe.

She would arrange for temporary lodging (often at the La Fonda Hotel), food, luggage storage and the security passes required for the physicists to travel to Los Alamos, the secret research facility located on top of a mesa where the worlds first atomic weapons were being designed and built. After a good nights rest, the physicists and their families were loaded onto busses for the 35 mile drive up the rutted and unpaved road to the Los Alamos facility. Once they saw their very basic accommodations on top of the mesa, most yearned to return to the luxurious La Fonda in Santa Fe. 

The history of 109 East Palace stretches back to 1939. In that year, Albert Einstein was persuaded to write a letter to then President Franklin Roosevelt, warning him that that in Germany the Nazi's were very close to developing their own atomic weapons. Einstein also understood that the German Air Force, the Luftwaffe was developing a long range bomber to deliver their atomic bomb to the US mainland. He strongly felt that the United States had to develop an atomic weapon first. In 1943 Oppenheimer established the Santa Fe office and the quest to develop the weapons had begun. Although the work was being carried out in the greatest secrecy, the Manhattan Project had several spies working inside the lab. They were dedicated to leaking information to the Soviet Union. Russian agents were meeting with these spies in Santa Fe restaurants, parks and even in the La Fonda Hotel.

Elk City Oklahoma to Albuquerque New Mexico

I drove 432 miles from Elk City Oklahoma to Albuquerque New Mexico today. We did have to stop at Amarillo International Airport to exchange our rental car because of a tire that had a slow leak. The helpful Enterprise agent tried to put us in a compact car after we had paid for a full size SUV but we declined. We're driving a minivan now and it's comfortable and roomy. We mainly stuck to highway 40 but did stop for lunch in at the Big Texan Steak Ranch in Amarillo Texas. It's a very large restaurant but there were very few people there. Rules regarding social distancing and use of face masks were being enforced so that was good. We had fun and the food was good.

We crossed into New Mexico and once we did the clouds and rain were left behind. It was 46 degrees when we left Elk City. When we arrived in New Mexico it was 79.

Kathy made a hotel reservation for us in Albuquerque, but we wanted to drive down old Route 66 for a bit to see the city of Tucumcari New Mexico first. Our first stop was the Blue Swallow Motel which is a historic attraction on Route 66 and has been serving customers since 1939. We met Rob, one of the owners while we were taking some photos of the property. He rightly asks that no one sells images of the hotel without their permission. We of course agreed to this, so no sales of the images taken here for any purpose. Please respect their request as we do and support this important small business enterprise along with the others along Route 66.

Next we visited the TePee Curios shop which I had seen on youtube. We found some great stuff to buy and met the owners who were very helpful.

After that we got back on the highway and saw a spectacular sunset as we arrived in Albuquerque. Tomorrow  we are headed west again although we might backtrack a little and head north to visit Santa Fe or head south to visit Sedona. Either way in the days to come we will pass through Gallup, Winslow, Flagstaff, and who knows where else. Great day today.