The Rookery

One of the sights Kathy and I wanted to see in Chicago during our 2023 visit was the Rookery building which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Construction was completed in 1888. In 1905 Frank Lloyd Wright was contracted to redesign the stunning two story lobby. The public can access only the street level floor but we found that the Frank Lloyd Right Trust (who has an office in the building) offers tours. We quickly decided to get two tickets which would allow us to see more of the building. It also helped that the hotel we were staying in was next door, which make for a short walk.

Kingman Arizona to California and Home Again

I drove 365 miles today and had some time to reflect on this long road trip.

Train Travel:

I had long wanted to take an extended train trip crossing several states and time zones. I never expected to ride four of the great train routes in one trip however. To recap, we rode the California Surfliner for 39 miles from Irvine California to the historic Union Station in Los Angeles. There we transferred to the Coast Starlight riding it to Portland Oregon's own Union Station a distance of 964 miles. At one point our train was running about an hour behind schedule so we thought we would miss our connection to the Empire Builder. Somehow Amtrak got the train back on schedule and we had about a 40 minute wait in Portland before we could board. We then rode the Empire Builder 2,206 miles to Chicago. After spending the night, we boarded the Capital Limited train and rode that to Washington DC's beautiful Union Station a distance of 594 miles. We covered a total 3,803 miles by train.

Would I make that journey again? I would, but instead of paying for sleeper cars, I'd buy a hop on hop off train pass. Having private accommodations on three of the trains was great especially with the coronavirus to consider. In a post coronavirus world, a train pass would allow me to see more places and sleep in more comfortable surroundings. It would also allow me more flexibility to change my plans during the trip. I'd love to stay for a few days in Glacier National Park for example.

Car Travel:

Renting a car and driving it the 2,785 miles we covered including side trips to Dayton Ohio and Santa Fe New Mexico was fine. I drove for all but about 10 miles. I wanted my wife to relax and take in the view and avoid the stress of driving. I noticed some interesting things. The highways in every state we visited are being expanded or improved. We saw lots of construction throughout the drive across the country. Drivers in Texas were probably the most aggressive while those in Oklahoma the most polite.

The Wearing of Masks and Social Distancing:

I noticed that two states stood far apart from the others when it came to not people not wearing masks or maintaining a social distance. Those were Illinois and Oklahoma. We saw lots of people in downtown Chicago without masks. When we stopped for gas in Springfield, we wore our masks and were stared at by the other customers. I only saw the gas station attendants wearing masks and they all had their noses exposed. In Tulsa and Oklahoma City we had similar experiences. We always wore our masks when we left our sleeping compartment on the train or left our rental car. We also took care to maintain a social distance from others.

Navigating Route 66:

As mentioned on a prior post, navigating old Route 66 was very difficult. I noticed in many small rural towns, many intersections had no street signs whatsoever. Route 66 signs were more often than not missing and instead another street name or highway number was displayed. Using the GPS unit we purchased for the trip was of limited usefulness as it typically wanted to guide us to the fastest route which was rarely Route 66. We also saw sections of Route 66 which were just closed for maintenance or permanently shut down, requiring us to resort to the interstate. I think better planning on my part is the answer here.

Would I Do It Again?

So after 6,588 miles, was it all worth it? Were this two weeks well spent? Absolutely! The most enjoyable thing was spending time with my family. Long, unhurried conversations with my brother-in-law were great and we laughted a lot. We all kept seeing interesting things and had the time to stop and look if we wanted to. I also got reacquainted with my camera equipment. I definitely packed too much stuff. I also pushed myself to meet and speak to more people. I found ready smiles and nearly everybody who asked "Where are you going?" seemed amused at my pointing vaguely at the western horizon as I explained "That way!" I loved not having a set schedule, not knowing in what city we would sleep in or where we would have our next meal.

Conclusion:

Coming home today, after following a long winding ascent, we crested one final mountain and found ourselves high atop a desert plain with the road now ramrod straight, descending and stretching out unbroken to the horizon. Not one cloud marred the sky, and we knew we had returned to the place we had started, California. While I'm glad to be home, I'm sorry this great adventure is over. For now, I'm too tired to post new photos. I'll add them tomorrow. 

Flagstaff Arizona to Kingman Arizona

I only drove 147 miles across Arizona today but most of it was on old Route 66. We stopped in the historic towns of Williams (bypassed by Interstate 40 in 1984) and Seligman (bypassed in 1978). Being bypassed often resulted in economic hardship. Williams is known as "The Gateway to the Grand Canyon". The historic downtown area covers about six blocks. We enjoyed touring the town, shopping and taking photos. Once an important stop for railroad traffic, Williams seems to be thriving primarily on tourism.

In 1987 the residents of Seligman convinced the state of Arizona to designate Route 66 as a historic highway and to add "City of Seligman" signs on Interstate 40 to draw people to the town and old Route 66 as well. In 2006, Pixar's movie "Cars" based its sleepy town "Radiator Springs" on Seligman. The result of these actions has been economic success for what might have been called a ghost town in years past. We had lunch at the Snow Cap Drive-In built in 1954. While the food was good, the Drive-In itself has so much history about the owners and visitors old and new on the walls, it was really tough to stop reading everything and order our food. The rest of the town was also very compelling.

Tomorrow with over 6,500 miles and 18 states behind us, We will cross back into California, I will drive the final 300+ miles home and this extraordinary road trip will conclude. We've seen a lot of beautiful country and met some interesting people. I have only posted a handful of photos from the thousands I took. I'll post more and better versions in time. I'm glad I decided to take a chance on only using my iPad Pro and the Affinity Photo software to process my photos. It's not a direct replacement for my normal workflow but it has allowed me to process and post photos relatively quickly while on the road. Many were edited in Amtrak trains moving at upwards of 70 mph or in the hotels we stayed in after many hours driving. WiFi has often been spotty to non-existent so I just used my cell service if that was available. I'll apologize now for the misspelled words and poor grammar in the posts from the last couple of weeks. My time to edit and write has been very limited and frankly, I've been tired from all the traveling. It's a good tired though. I'll go back and make some needed corrections as soon as I can.

Some of you reading this may know that my Mom passed away a few months ago. I hadn't taken a real vacation in several years as I had my hands full being a primary caregiver for her. This has been a cathartic experience and while I still think about her everyday, this trip has helped move me along the path of healing.

While I greatly appreciate and welcome the new readers/viewers of this blog, I'd like to acknowledge the long time readers who have come back after my not posting for several years. Yesterday's post had about 1,100 unique views and the number of visitors has been steadily increasing in the past couple of weeks. For those of you who have kindly taken the time to reach out, I have received your messages and I will respond to everyone as soon as I can.

Thanks for joining me (virtually) on this journey. California and the final post of this Route 66 trip tomorrow!

Greg (Big Pixel Pusher)

Santa Fe New Mexico to Flagstaff Arizona

I drove 384 miles today from Santa Fe New Mexico to Flagstaff Arizona. We really enjoyed staying in Santa Fe. While all of the stores were displaying very beautiful but expensive things, very few tourists seemed to be purchasing things. It was clear that the Covid-19 virus has impacted Santa Fe hard. I would say that fully one third of the stores were vacant, another third were closed, and the remaining third that were open, weren't busy. The town was not packed at all and those tourists that were there were not carrying packages. Anyway, we stayed at the historic La Fonda Hotel. I woke up around 4:30 and decided to check out the Orionids meteor shower. While I didn't see any, there were countless stars in the sky above Santa Fe.

We knew we had a long drive to Flagstaff so we got up early, had breakfast at a nice cafe that has been in the same location since 1909 and got on the road. We refueled the minivan and ourselves in Gallup New Mexico. We then decided to stand on a corner in Winslow Arizona (such a fine sight to see).

Our stop here was brief but enjoyable. The road from Windslow to Flagstaff seemed to mainly be climbing and we passed several towering mesas and red rocks were prevalent.

Tomorrow we intend to return to Route 66 to see the Arizona towns of Williams, Seligman, Kingman, and Oatman.

Hidden in Plain Sight - A Historic Atomic Marker in Santa Fe New Mexico

We only drove about 55 miles today. After having breakfast in the arts district in Albuquerque New Mexico, we decided to visit Santa Fe. I have wanted to visit for a while but especially so after reading a fascinating book called 109 East Palace: Robert Oppenheimer and the Secret City of Los Alamos. 

Today in the courtyard patio of 109 East Palace visitors will find colorful ceramic lizards, chilies, frogs and dragonflies for sale.

Attached to the back wall is a small historic plaque.

With only a small sign that indicates a historical marker can be seen in the patio, the overwhelming majority of tourists miss it.

They pass by unaware that in the 1940's physics luminary's like Edward Teller, Enrico Fermi and Richard Feynman passed through this patio, often bringing their families with them. Each had received secret orders to report to 109 East Palace, Santa Fe New Mexico. They were tired, often having endured long journeys by train to this desolate desert city located high in the mountains at 7,199 feet of elevation.

When they arrived, they were met by Dorothy McKibbin a widow who had originally come to the New Mexico desert hoping to be cured of tuberculosis. After she recovered, she was offered a job by none other than Robert Oppenheimer, a professor from the University of California at Berkeley. Dorothy ran the secret Manhattan Project office in Santa Fe.

She would arrange for temporary lodging (often at the La Fonda Hotel), food, luggage storage and the security passes required for the physicists to travel to Los Alamos, the secret research facility located on top of a mesa where the worlds first atomic weapons were being designed and built. After a good nights rest, the physicists and their families were loaded onto busses for the 35 mile drive up the rutted and unpaved road to the Los Alamos facility. Once they saw their very basic accommodations on top of the mesa, most yearned to return to the luxurious La Fonda in Santa Fe. 

The history of 109 East Palace stretches back to 1939. In that year, Albert Einstein was persuaded to write a letter to then President Franklin Roosevelt, warning him that that in Germany the Nazi's were very close to developing their own atomic weapons. Einstein also understood that the German Air Force, the Luftwaffe was developing a long range bomber to deliver their atomic bomb to the US mainland. He strongly felt that the United States had to develop an atomic weapon first. In 1943 Oppenheimer established the Santa Fe office and the quest to develop the weapons had begun. Although the work was being carried out in the greatest secrecy, the Manhattan Project had several spies working inside the lab. They were dedicated to leaking information to the Soviet Union. Russian agents were meeting with these spies in Santa Fe restaurants, parks and even in the La Fonda Hotel.

Elk City Oklahoma to Albuquerque New Mexico

I drove 432 miles from Elk City Oklahoma to Albuquerque New Mexico today. We did have to stop at Amarillo International Airport to exchange our rental car because of a tire that had a slow leak. The helpful Enterprise agent tried to put us in a compact car after we had paid for a full size SUV but we declined. We're driving a minivan now and it's comfortable and roomy. We mainly stuck to highway 40 but did stop for lunch in at the Big Texan Steak Ranch in Amarillo Texas. It's a very large restaurant but there were very few people there. Rules regarding social distancing and use of face masks were being enforced so that was good. We had fun and the food was good.

We crossed into New Mexico and once we did the clouds and rain were left behind. It was 46 degrees when we left Elk City. When we arrived in New Mexico it was 79.

Kathy made a hotel reservation for us in Albuquerque, but we wanted to drive down old Route 66 for a bit to see the city of Tucumcari New Mexico first. Our first stop was the Blue Swallow Motel which is a historic attraction on Route 66 and has been serving customers since 1939. We met Rob, one of the owners while we were taking some photos of the property. He rightly asks that no one sells images of the hotel without their permission. We of course agreed to this, so no sales of the images taken here for any purpose. Please respect their request as we do and support this important small business enterprise along with the others along Route 66.

Next we visited the TePee Curios shop which I had seen on youtube. We found some great stuff to buy and met the owners who were very helpful.

After that we got back on the highway and saw a spectacular sunset as we arrived in Albuquerque. Tomorrow  we are headed west again although we might backtrack a little and head north to visit Santa Fe or head south to visit Sedona. Either way in the days to come we will pass through Gallup, Winslow, Flagstaff, and who knows where else. Great day today.

Springfield Missouri to Elk City Oklahoma

I drove 441 miles from Springfield Missouri to Elk City Oklahoma today. We did end up cruising for quite a while down Route 66 and saw some cool stuff but didn't stop since it rained nearly all day. We did pass by the famous blue whale east of Catoosa Oklahoma and since the rain had momentarily stopped we turned the car around to check it out. Tomorrow we are heading for Amarillo Texas and possibly Albuquerque New Mexico. Hope we leave the rain behind.

Indianapolis Indiana to Springfield Missouri

I drove 454 miles from Indianapolis Indiana to Springfield Missouri today. Once we left the highway and joined up with Route 66 we found navigating difficult. Surprisingly, modern maps don't always show the route of historic Route 66 clearly. The route is on the map but it is often marked with another name or number. We did stop in a cool Route 66 museum in Litchfield Indiana, but other than stopping to eat, we stuck to the major highway and bypassed Route 66. I can't manually navigate and drive at the same time. My wife gets agitated if she has to navigate so I think the attempt to drive along Route 66 ends here. The goal of this vacation is to relax and explore. I don't want my wife to get stressed out on what is her vacation too so I think we will stick to the major highways and I can better plan the route for a solo trip I'll take at a later date. 

We may still be able to see a few things on Route 66 using a turn-by-turn navigaton app I purchased today. Who knows. Hope so.

National Museum of the United States Air Force - Dayton Ohio

I have always wanted to visit the National Museum of the United States Air Force in Dayton Ohio. The problem has always been that it's a long way to go from California to just see one attraction. My opinion has changed. This museum is so vast, I could easily spend 3 or 4 days just looking around. We were only in the building for about 5 hours and it just wasn't enough time to see everything. This place is high on my list of places I want to return to. We were shocked when my wife asked the security guards at the bag check if they allowed tripods in the museum. The answer was a simple "Sure". My wife entered the museum while my brother-in-law and I trudged back to the car to retrieve the tripods. Wow was it worthwhile. To preserve the artifacts, the lighting level in the museum hangers is kept low. This made using a tripod especially useful. I think I took about 1,000 photos. I have included a few below. After leaving the museum, we drove from Dayton Ohio to Indianapolis Indiana which is only about 120 miles but it was already getting dark and we were tired from the 600 miles we drove the day before. So I'm typing this post on my iPad Pro in a Hilton hotel in downtown. Now that this is done, I'm headed for bed. It's onto St. Louis and Route 66 tomorrow morning.

Long Drive From Washington DC

Kathy and I arrived in Washington DC on the Amtrak Cardinal train from Chicago around 6:30pm Wednesday. We walked to our hotel, dropped off our bags and went back out to find something to eat. We were shocked at how empty Washington's Union Station was. I think Covid 19 has taken a terrible toll on the businesses that once filled the main waiting room and the other retail areas. We found something to eat, took it back to our room, ate, took showers and went to sleep. We had to pickup our rental car at Reagan National Airport at 7:00am this morning. Other than a real lack of customer service at the Alamo car rental counter, getting the car was uneventful. We drove to Maryland to pickup my wife's brother who is riding with us all the way back to California along Route 66. We made it all the way to Dayton Ohio where we will stay tonight and visit the National Museum of the United States Air Force in the morning.

While we didn't have time to take photos in Washington during our short visit, here are a couple from previous visits.